View across a Moroccan village with some green trees in a valley between some sandy hillsides. It's a nice day with a few fluffy clouds in the sky. A scene viewed when experiencing Africa for the first time on a tour of Morocco

Experiencing Africa For The First Time

19-24 October 2022- New Experience Number 21.

Jump to 'Try it yourself'

Experiencing Africa for the first time, there was a certain song that kept playing in my head.

‘She’s coming in 12:30 flight’, so sang Toto on their 1982 banger of a song. Not quite. Our early morning flight to Africa landed around 10.30am.

If that means nothing to you, take a look on YouTube. I’m almost certain you’ll recognise the track.

Setting off in the dark from Manchester, we landed around four hours later in a continent I’d never stepped foot in before. Africa. The second biggest continent in the world. I couldn’t wait to experience it!

View from an airplane window as the plane flies across Morocco. Dry land can be seen when experiencing Africa for the first time
Coming in to land at Morocco

Experiencing Africa For The First Time - Uncertain About Claiming It As A New Thing

I was in two minds about claiming this as a new thing. Whilst I’ve now had a first visit to Africa and thoroughly loved my time there, I don’t think I can really say I’ve visited the continent. But, I have now stepped foot there and explored a fair bit of one of the countries, so I’m claiming it!

Based on land mass, (and not including the disputed territory of Western Sahara), Morocco is the 25th biggest country out of the 54 that make up Africa, so I’ve only had a small step of discovery. Whilst we covered a huge distance during our time there,  compared to the bigger picture it’s only really a small fraction of exploration.

View from up high looking across a brown sandy mountain range. The sky is blue and it is a sunny day. This is the sort of scene that can be seen when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Incredible mountain views in Morocco

A Much Better Adventure

Our first visit to Africa was with Much Better Adventures, who used the company Aztat Treks.

The five day tour began in the vibrant city of Marrakech, then took us out through the stunning Atlas Mountains to the seemingly endless desert. 

The furthest point east in our journey took us to the small village of Merzouga. It’s nestled at the edge of the desert where we had an unforgettable time riding camels, playing drums with the Berbers and sleeping in the Sahara Desert.

A tightly winding road going through a rocky valley
An impressive drive through the valley

Following some impressive winding roads, our return drive took us through some of the lush valleys and deep gorges.

In a short space of time we experienced delicious local cuisine, met wonderful people, and saw so much of the beautiful country.

Whilst this is a write up about my overall first visit to Africa, I know it’s only really a review of our time in Morocco. Hopefully in the future I’ll get the opportunity to experience more of this amazing place! Let me know in the comments if you’ve any recommendations!

Sunrise over a sandy landscape. There are palm trees at the bottom of a sandy hill. The sort of view that can be seen when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Spectacular sunrise in the desert

Marrakech Magical Mayhem

I absolutely loved that our first 24 hours were in Marrakech. What. A. Place!

We were left to our own devices to explore the maze of the Medina. The narrow streets of the meandering market places were crammed wall to wall with stalls. You could buy anything from shoes to spices, lipsticks to lanterns, carpets to ceramics and a whole host of other tantalising goods.

It’s a city full of movement as people erratically milled about the city centre. Tourists wound their way between the stalls browsing the delights on offer; locals frenetically dashed about their daily routines; regular visitors slalomed between everyone, and the cats. So many cats! 

Sunset looking down onto a busy square in Marrakech which is full of market stalls and people.
The bustling Marrakech market at sunset
Market stalls lining a cobbled street on a sunny day. Something you may see when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
You can buy almost anything from the stalls
Close up of a very cute brown and white cat that is looking straight at the camera. Seen whenExperiencing Africa For The First Time
Just one of the many cats of Marrakech

Marrakech was such a kaleidoscopic city – vibrant, bold and bright. A plethora of brightly coloured scarves and kaftans weighed heavily on the racks of the market stalls. Aromatic spices in a multitude of shades were precariously piled high in barrels – I didn’t know spices could come in so many colours! Bold painted tiles, ubiquitous with Morocco, could be spotted almost everywhere.

Moroccan street scene. There are colourful tuk tuks driving past a pink building. People are bustling about the market stalls. Experiencing Africa For The First Time this is something you may see.
A fairly quiet moment on the street
An alley covered with some canopys. A bicycle is propped up against one of the shop fronts and a person is walking along. This is something that you might typically see when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Inside one of the souks

Scooters swarmed haphazardly, buzzing amongst pedestrians. Tourist laden horse and carts somehow trotted safely between the heavy traffic in the bustling centre. Yet amongst all of this chaos, there was plenty of history and some quieter places for contemplation.

I absorbed all of the sights, the sounds, and the smells as the gorgeous mayhem stirred all of my senses.

A quiet town square with palm trees and a couple of people in the day time. Marrakech in Africa.
A quiet town square
Girl playing at a tiled fountain in Marrakech on a sunny day. There are palm trees around the fountain. A scene when experiencing Africa for the first time.
Peace and quiet in the centre of Marrakech

Kutubiyya Mosque - Experiencing Africa For The First Time

A big pull for people visiting the city are the remains of Kutubiyya Mosque (also known as Koutoubia Mosque). The 77 metre high Koutoubia Minaret is part of the largest mosque in Marrakech. It stands impressively tall when up close, and can apparently be seen 29km away! Walk to it down a beautiful palm tree lined strip, and you might just spot that some of those palm trees are in fact 5G masts in disguise! Clever!

The Kutubiyya minaret at Marrakech. A tall sandy coloured tower with a water feature in the walkway infront of it. There are some people walking by.
Kutubiyya minaret, an impressive sight from any angle
The Kutubiyya minaret tower in Marrakech, Africa. A tall sandy red building at the end of a walkway lined with palm trees. Something you might see when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Apparently the minaret can be seen from 29km away!

Marrakech Night Market - Magnificent Madness

At night the Jemaa el-Fna square intensified the bedlam as the market stalls lit up.

Not only were there things to buy, and tastes to savour, there was ample ‘entertainment’ to entice us to open our wallets.

Night time view looking down at the Marrakech night market in Morocco in Africa. There are lots of stalls, lots of lights, and lots of people milling around.
The vibrant market really comes alive at night

The pounding beat of the drummers provided the rhythm as we walked through the smokey haze emanating from the hookahs and the street food outlets. Local women reached for our hands to apply beautifully intricate henna designs and dancers performed in the most minuscule spaces.

People in the night market of Marrakech. Smoke is floating up from the stalls. Somewhere many people visit when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Sights, smells and sounds drift across the market

Serpents hypnotically danced under the spell of the enchanting music played by the snake charmers. Cages of various birds including beautiful peacocks and less exotic chickens, were displayed for public admiration. Elsewhere, live, chained, monkeys posed with tourists for photographs.

Taking the slightest hesitation at any of these and there was an expectation of a donation to their efforts at entertaining us.

Marrakech Night Market - Foodie Heaven

Skewers of meat sizzled over hot coals and steaming vats of gently spiced tagine simmered.  Sheep heads provided a gory spectacle for the more adventurous diner, and a whole array of aromatic snacks were displayed on colourful beds of fresh produce. There were far too many places to eat in the market to make a swift dining decision. Thankfully, the very skilled patter of the merchants helped to narrow down the choice.

Each food outlet had someone promoting their menu to passers by. They try to out-do the neighbouring options by telling you their mother is doing the cooking that night, or that everything is cooked following family recipes handed down through countless generations. They’ll also try to find common ground by dropping in mentions of football teams or something cultural you might recognise from home. We ended up at a place where once they saw our recognition of the phrase ‘lovely jubbly’, it was repeated many, many, more times.

A market stall goraning under full of bowls of fresh fruit and vegetables, rice, herbs and some bottles of chilled soft drinks. Experiencing Africa For The First Time.
Stalls were piled high with enticing foods
Looking down at a plate of freshly cooked skewers. Some are chicken and one is a skewer of vegetables. Bread is visible to the left. It is all on a white table cloth. This is an example of the food eaten when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Mouthwateringly delicious brochettes in a variety of spices

It turned out to be a good choice though! We feasted on khobz (Moroccan bread), brochettes coated in different spices (meat skewers), and pastilla, (a sweet and savoury chicken pastry). Our very jovial host served us with a smile. Finishing off with a flourish as he raised the silver teapot high and poured out glasses of steaming Berber Whisky – also known as mint tea!

Marrakech Night Market - Opportunity Knocks

Even when eating, people want to to sell you things. On offer when we were there were dubious looking designer handbags, and t-shirts of questionable authenticity. We were also presented with pictures made from butterfly wings, and unexpected but practical packets of tissues. It’s a constant, yet friendly onslaught of people looking to make a trade.

Not only are there things to buy, and street performances to watch, there are also activities to participate in. I had a go at a street fishing game, – a bit like a bigger version of hook a duck. Instead of ducks, there were bottles of soft drinks evading capture.

Night time at the market in Jemaa el-Fna square in Marrakech. Something many people visit when Experiencing Africa For The First Time. Lanterns are lit up on the floor for sale whilst people chat behind.
Pretty lanterns for sale in the Jemaa el-Fna square market

Beyond Marrakech - The Atlas Mountains

The chaotic roads of Marrakech disappeared in the rear view mirror. The road wound through bustling pockets of civilisation. Busy villagers and laden donkeys went about their daily routines. Tourist cafes with panoramic views offered a breather from the hot drive along dusty roads.

We drove through the beautiful Atlas Mountains along the winding Tizi n’Tichka pass. At 2,260 metres it’s the the highest mountain pass in North Africa, and the dry rocky mountains stretch for miles.

A road twisting and turning up through the Tizi n’Tichka pass of the Atlas Mountains. A place many people visit when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
The winding road of the Tizi n’Tichka pass through the stunning Atlas Mountains

Vendors clasped rocks in their hands on the summit. They opened the hard shells to reveal bright minerals they had mined from the local area. Stall holders tried to encourage tourists to buy these ‘rare’ souvenirs. There was more than ample opportunity to practice haggling skills.

A chest of colourful items for sale at a stop on the Tizi n’Tichka pass in the Atlas Mountains. There are mountains behind and it is a clear day. It is a stunning view in Morocco
Souvenirs for sale at a rest stop with an amazing view on the Tizi n’Tichka pass.

Spot The Kasbah - Experiencing Africa For The First Time

Stopping off along the way, we visited the UNESCO World Heritage site of Aït Benhaddou. Wandering through the narrow winding walkways of the Kasbah, it all felt slightly familiar. We found that it had been used as a location for many films including The Living Daylights, (best Bond theme in my opinion, probably because of the band!), Gladiator, The Mummy, and more recently the TV series Game of Thrones. It’s no wonder we recognised it.

A kasbah in Morocco made of red earth under a dimming sky as the sun sets. Something visitors may see when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
The UNESCO site of the kasbah at Ait-Ben-Haddou, which may look familiar to fans of Game Of Thrones

Beyond Marrakech - Onward to Merzouga

The emptiness of long barren roads was punctuated by small settlements and vast earthen built red Kasbahs. These Kasbahs were once painted white so that oncoming caravans could easily identify them from afar. Many have have now faded to red after years of dry weather has eroded their exteriors.

Down into palm tree lined valleys where trickles of water drip through dusty river beds, and people find solace from the sun in the shade of buildings.

A long straight road heading off into the distance through a sandy landscape. There is one car ahead on the road. This desert view may be seen when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
One of the long, empty roads we took across the country on the trip

We continued along vast empty stretches of road. Passing the occasional camel crossing sign (don’t adjust your screen, it actually is slightly blue in colour), and then arriving at the tall pink gateway at Rissani.

Triangular road sign with an image of a camel on it. Something that is unusual when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Your eyes aren't deceiving you, the camel is blue on this road sign

Welcoming us to the desert, Rissani felt like a busy hub of a place after the remoteness encountered along the previous miles. An excellent opportunity to stop off, stretch the legs and replenish supplies.

A pink and cream coloured gatehouse across a road on entry to Rissani. A place visited when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
The pink gateway welcoming you to the desert at Rissani

Following the road through the centre of the town and then out to Merzouga. The landscape was dry and flat until glowing golden peaks royally rise up ahead. The monumental sand dunes signified our crossing into the Sahara where camel rides and nights in Berber camps awaited.

A glowing golden sand dune at sunset under a cloudless sky in Merzouga. Something many people visit when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
A phenomenally majestic sight - sand dunes near Merzouga

Gorge-ous places - Experiencing Africa For The First Time

Our return journey back west took us through a valley. The narrow road wound next to the river and carved through the deep cliff sides at the Todgha gorge. In the shade of the imposing rocks, brightly coloured clothing hung from the racks of Berber traders. Meanwhile, climbers traversed the rock face, looking like dots of colour moving from the lower cooler air into the sun drenched upper cliffs.

A sandy coloured building in the shadows of the tall cliff sides in Todgha gorge.
A building at the bottom of Todgha gorge.

Monkey Fingers

We continued through Dades Gorge where the lumpy rocks and boulders appeared strikingly different. Looking like large digits rising from the river, it’s easy to see how these unusual formations in Tamlalt are known as Monkey Fingers.

A mountain side made up of unusual clumps of rock which look a bit like monkey fingers at Tamlalt
The unusual formation at Tamlalt known as Monkey Fingers

Rose Valley

The shops in the lush green Rose Valley had hundreds of rose infused products for sale. I’d expected the shelves to be full of toiletries, yet there were also unexpected household products available. When the valley is blanketed by the pink petals in the spring, it must be a beautiful encounter. 

Close up of a pink flower with some green leaves infront of a blue sky
Beautiful flowers bringing a splash of colour to the desert

Feast Of Flavours - Experiencing Africa For The First Time

We experienced incredible traditional Moroccan cuisine on our tour. Whilst the dishes aren’t necessarily the most complex, they are mouthwateringly delicious, with lots of fresh fruit and salads, hearty tagines and skewers of meat on offer.

Always Haggling

Whatever time of day, and regardless of whether you’re in the market at Marrakech, up in the mountains, or out in the desert, traders try to gain your attention and make a sale.

Sellers were very proactive and tried to entice us with their wares. I didn’t find them to be aggressive or rude, and we didn’t experience anyone overly pushy. Some of them turned up the charm, and the cheek, but obligingly accepted our refusals and it all felt very comfortable and safe.

Whilst there is ample opportunity to spend a lot of money, it doesn’t have to be expensive. If you are buying something, haggling is expected. If you don’t try to negotiate a price, then you’ve probably paid too much.

Flat roofed building with brightly coloured carpets hanging from the roof.
So many things to buy, but always haggle

Friendly Welcome - Experiencing Africa For The First Time

The people were all very friendly, many of them speaking French, English and Spanish alongside their native Arabic. Outside of Marrakech we found more populous of Berber people, proud of their 4000 year culture. Traditional customs, music and dance are just as important to them now as they have ever has been. 

Berbers lived in Morocco long before the Arabs came, and today the two share the land together. Women aren’t often seen in customer facing roles, it was mostly men who served us and they were happy to tell us about their country and their customs.

African Adventure - Hopefully To Be Continued!

So we didn’t do a bad job of covering quite a bit of the 25th biggest country in the second biggest continent on the planet. There’s still so much more to explore for new adventures though, and I am already looking forward to going back some day!

As for Toto, from the opening notes it’s an instantly recognisable song. Shoehorning in the words ‘As sure as Kilimanjaro rises like Olympus above the Serengeti’ should not have been possible in the space allowed, but somehow they did it. Just like my first experience visiting Africa, it’s an absolute classic smash hit.

Mountains in the blue hour often seen when Experiencing Africa For The First Time
Incredible light across the Moroccan mountains

Want To Try It Yourself?

  • This is an experience that I can’t offer particularly tailored advice about. If you want to try visiting Africa yourself, there are so many options!
  • Things you might want to consider
    • The time of year you want to go, are there any events on that you would like to be part of?
    • Where you want to go in Africa, there are plenty of places to choose!
    • Do you want to organise it yourself or have someone else plan it all. We decided to book a tour for our first visit so that we didn’t have to organise anything. We’d been on two, month long, road trips not long before we visited, so it was nice to not have to do any navigating ourselves.
  • Visiting Africa was a new experience for me as it was a continent I’d never been to. Maybe there is a continent you’ve yet to visit – could your next trip be there for a new experience?

Cost Of Experience

  • Our trip was through Much Better Adventures and cost £375 per person in October 2022. Prices may vary depending on the time of year you go.
  • Flights were separate and cost us £91 per person for the return.
  • Although a majority of meals were included in the price, we had to pay for some. On average, three courses consisting of salad, tagine or skewers followed by fresh fruit, was around £8 per person.

Recommendations

  • If you think you might like to visit Africa, don’t hesitate to do it! I’m hoping we will be able to explore further in the future.
  • Money: Morocco has a closed currency, meaning you can’t exchange any money before you go. There are cash machines at the airport which are much better than the currency exchange points. The exchange points will give you cash and offer to put some of your currency onto a card. It’s all perfectly legitimate, but it’s not necessarily the best deal.
  • Clothes: It’s not expected that women must wear headscarves, and it’s not essential for women to cover up completely, but it is respectful to wear things that at least cover the knees, and leave some things to the imagination. It is hot, so loose layers are a good bet for men and women, and a hat or scarf to protect your head from the sun.
  • It’s ok to say no: traders will want to sell you things, they’ll try and entice you into their stalls, it’s perfectly fine to refuse.
  • Don’t accept the first price: Haggling and bartering is expected. Traders won’t exchange if your offer is too low, but they are happy for negotiation. If you take the first price stated, they’ll have made a very good profit and it’s likely you won’t have got value for money.

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