Had A Go At Playing Drums With Berbers In Morocco
21st October 2022- New Experience Number 25.
Playing drums with Berbers in Morocco happened when we spent a night in the desert, which was another new thing I tried on my first visit to Africa.
Who Are The Berber?
Berbers, (also known as Amazigh which means ‘free people’), are descendants of the pre-Arab inhabitants of North Africa. Many can trace their ancestry a long way back to 3000 BCE.
Most Berbers were originally Nomadic. They would live in tents and move their homes, along with their livestock, in order to keep moving with good weather. Now, numerous Berbers live in the Atlas Mountains growing fruits and nuts and keeping sheep and goats. Whilst many of their traditions have changed over time, they still keep them alive and practice the heritage they are proud of.
Campfire Songs - Playing Drums With Berbers In Morocco
After a delicious evening meal at our desert camp, our Berber hosts lit the campfire and invited us to sink down into big patterned cushions and join them for some entertainment.
Using only percussion and voices, they performed some evocative renditions of traditional songs. They had an assortment of drums of differing sizes which they played by hand.
Playing With Tradition
Their instruments were all beautifully decorated with patterns and designs. They played on individual Tarija drums shaped like an hour glass, and drums in duos called Tam-Tam which resembled bongos.
Some of the group played two drums, whilst others masterfully danced their hands around four drums to beat out the lively rhythms.
One of the Berbers played an instrument which had the potential to look like a torture device. It was two pieces of dark metal, both in the same shape which reminded me of a cartoon dog bone. The two parts of the metal contraption were played like a cross between castanets and hand cymbals. Called a Qraqeb, it was held and performed in just one hand making a sound resembling a metal pan lid quickly being removed.
I had absolutely no idea what the words were that they were singing, but it sounded enchanting. Our guide helpfully told us the themes which were generally about ways of life in the desert.
Clapping, feet tapping and even some dancing swept around the camp fire. Everyone got into the spirit of the night. Then the Berbers invited us to join in.
The Rhythm Wasn’t Going To Get You
Not from our group anyway. Our tour group of six were first up. It was easy to actually play their drums. Simply tap a flat hand onto the top. It was not so easy trying to play a rhythm in time. Especially when there were expert locals and complete novices all doing it at the same time.
There were beats on top of beats, beats in between beats, and plenty of completely missed beats that had vanished somewhere into the night. If anyone had tried dancing to the racket we were creating they’d have surely twisted an ankle.
Somehow we muddled through a performance. It must have sounded horrendous to the rest of the guests as we sped up, slowed down, and randomly drummed at differing times. Maybe I should just say we were going for the more avant-garde sound on purpose?!
I’m sure the round of applause was more an expression of relief that we’d finished than for the delightful, ahem, sound that we had produced.
Drumming Up Support
Others guests took our place and seemed far more adept at keeping the beat and creating a rhythmic pattern that was pleasing on the ears. Our tour group had only met 56 hours earlier, so perhaps the other groups had the advantage of knowing each other for longer and being more in tune with each other.
All of the camp guests had a go, spurred on and encouraged by everyone else. There was the opportunity for a second attempt and I joined a lady from Canada. A Berber showed us a new pattern to play on the drums, which incorporated a hand clap as well. This was clearly far too advanced and took far more concentration. I think I sort of got it, and I’ll blame the smoke in my eyes for any wrong beats.
You Can’t Beat It - Playing Drums With Berbers In Morocco
Playing drums, all-be-it quite badly, was a great experience. From being out in the desert under the star strewn sky, pounding on the percussion by the flickering light of the camp fire, to laughing at the absurd sound we were making. It was a great bonding experience for all of the guests in our camp. It didn’t matter where people were from, or what language we spoke, this was something that crossed all barriers.
Want To Try It Yourself?
- Our experience of drumming with the Berber group was included in the five night tour we booked with Much Better Adventures.
- Many of the Sahara camping experiences available in Morocco will include the drumming.
Cost Of Experience
We paid just under £400 per person for our tour in October 2022. This didn’t include flights, but did include 5 nights accommodation, all transport in Morocco, and most of the meals.
- You can check the latest updates and prices on the Much Better Adventures site
Prices may vary depending who you take the experience with.
Recommendations
- Give it a go! So what if it doesn’t sound as good as the Berbers, they’ve had years of practice. Let yourself loose and who knows what brilliant rhythms you might create.
- Don’t forget your camera!