2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
2nd & 3rd June 2023 - New Experience Number 19.
2 days and 1 night trekking in Sapa was both a challenging and rewarding experience in the north west of Vietnam.
Our fantastic local guide took us through the spectacular scenery to remote villages, teaching us about the customs and cultures.
The Hmong family we stayed with at the homestay cooked up an incredible feast and introduced us to the local ‘Happy Water’.
Covering 20 kilometres over undulating terrain, this was an incredible new experience despite some unexpected insults and lots of ‘shopping’. Claiming this travel adventure as one of my 52 new things in 2023, here’s what it was like, and how you can try it too.
2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa With A Great Guide
Our guide met us with a very friendly welcome first thing in the morning at our accommodation.
Tzu was going to be looking after us for our two day trek which would include mountain views, terraced rice fields, bamboo forests, local foods and remote villages. I was really looking forward to taking in the scenery, seeing village life and meeting some locals.
An Unexpected Guest
Accompanying Tzu was a lady wearing traditional clothing and carrying a basket on her back. I had heard that local women would walk with tour groups, often for hours on end, to try and sell their handicrafts. This seemed a bit early in the day for a hard sell, and I warily made some conversation with her.
She asked the usual ‘Where you from?’, (they don’t often use ‘are’), and ‘What’s your name?’. Her name was Cho. I asked if she was joining us on the trek. She said we were walking to her village so she would walk with us and then maybe we would buy some shopping from her. I was a little disappointed, but she wasn’t pushy and we had some really nice conversations about family life along the way.
Beautiful Morning Views
During the morning we hiked up the hill out of town to incredible views across to the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, and back down to Sapa.
Tzu took us along barely visible trails around the hilltops, by remote ramshackle homes, past buffalo enjoying a cooling wallow in muddy water and through fields thick with lush crops including hemp, lilies and indigo plants.
It was fairly clear, meaning we had spectacular views. It also meant it was very hot, but we walked at a steady pace, and bought ice cold drinks from enterprising families.
There was always something to see and Tzu frequently stopped to point out things of interest.
“Try this local fruit“, she encouraged us to take a bite of the apples that had fallen from the tree. They were very small. They were also very sour. She laughed telling us these weren’t quite ripe yet, and that they use these apples to make ‘Happy Water’, a very pungent alcoholic drink like rice wine.
Awkward Shopping - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
We were about to head for lunch, which was where Cho would be parting ways with us. This was when she produced the ‘shopping’ that she had been carrying.
Considering I had anticipated more of a bombardment of hard sell throughout the walk, this was palatable. She showed some of the items she had made, from bags, to pillow cases, headbands and scarves.
Everything was undoubtedly pretty and unique, but it didn’t quite sit right with me that there was an expectation we would buy something. However, Cho had been very nice and friendly along the walk and told me all about the crafts she creates. I bought a beautiful deep indigo scarf which she had worked on for 5 months, so it’s definitely a memento with a story.
Refuelling With A View
Lunch was at a restaurant high in the peaks, busy with trekkers from other tours. We had seen several other groups hiking through the hills throughout the morning, but there was enough space for us all to find our own path in the wilderness. This was clearly a central point on many of the walking routes.
Our lunchtime refuel was a feast! Plate after plate of delicious local food was brought to our table. We heartily tucked in to some of the best spring rolls we had in Vietnam, tofu, chicken and vegetables, more than enough to keep us going for the afternoon.
Descending The Muong Hoa Valley
We had mostly been climbing in the morning, so naturally there would be some downhill at some point. The afternoon was mostly a long descent in the Muong Hoa valley. I’m generally ok on a downhill if it’s a good, fairly even, and wide enough path. This was not the case for our trek.
There weren’t always obvious, well-worn tracks that we followed. Many times it felt as if Tzu knew the direction and just made up the path as she went.
We wound our way down a narrow route through the tall bamboo forest and around the very uneven edge of a thick corn field using our arms to push through the tall leafy crops. It was narrow, and rocky in places and took a lot of paying attention to where I was placing my feet.
Despite being careful, I had to dust myself off after a slight slip in the dry soil. From that point on, Tzu was very sweet and offered me her hand for some trickier sections. She reassuringly said she would look after me like she looks after her mother – “who is also old”. Tzu was young, but I didn’t think I was old enough to be her mother!
Terraced Rice Fields - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
Emerging through the undergrowth, the view opened up ahead of us. Wide steps cascaded down the hillside. This was our first view of the famous rice fields.
They were different colours; lush green when they were full of rice, and a rich brown soil when they weren’t being used.
Rippling across the valley like an earthen patchwork it was beautiful as the late afternoon sun warmed the natural shades.
Not just a pretty sight, they are an essential part of their daily life. It’s incredible to think some of the terraces have been in use for decades, and how much work goes into making and maintaining them.
Lao Chai - Ta Van
Reaching the bottom of the valley we were coming to civilisation. Tzu laughed as she pointed along the river just a few metres to our left. A couple of ropes were tied across the ravine, with swinging, rickety bits of wood to step on at intervals.
Thankfully, we were on a more modern bridge, and I was very grateful for this crossing point that we were using!
A last push uphill through the village of Ta Van, past shops, homestays and along some very good pavements. Then a final steep field past some grazing buffalo, and we arrived at our very welcoming homestay
Tribe Walking - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
Tzu left us in the capable hands of our homestay hosts as she had a further walk of 40 minutes to her village. Her tribe walk alot. It turned out that Tzu had already walked 3 hours first thing that morning to collect us. She then walked with us all day guiding us to our homestay, and whilst we were getting washed and resting up, she still had a few miles to walk back home.
As if we weren’t already impressed, she then casually threw in the fact that she used to carry her baby with her on the trek. Carrying a back pack is one thing, but carrying a living tiny human?! That’s got to be tough work!
Homely Homestay
Our homestay hosts were a big family and the already lively household became even more animated when another trekking group joined us. The children of the family ran amok with some tiny puppies, whilst the adults made sure we were welcomed and made to feel at home.
Dinner was served around a communal table – with the small chairs ever-present in Vietnam. It was another banquet as multiple plates of delicious home cooked local dishes were placed out for us.
Chatting over food was a great opportunity to get to know the other group. They were a mixture of different nationalities who were on a slightly shorter two day trek, and it was great sharing stories with them.
Happy Water, Happy Evening
With a knowing smile, our host produced a bottle of rice wine after dinner. She poured us all a big measure, admitting she had no idea how strong it was. This was the ‘Happy Water’ Tzu had told us about earlier. It smelt vile. The aroma alone induced coughing.
Clinking our glasses together, we knocked back the ‘generous’ gesture from our host. A table full of screwed up faces followed as the lethal liquor burnt the back of our throats. Our host laughed and left the bottle encouraging us to help ourselves to more.
We all spent the rest of the evening sitting under the shelter of the veranda as a storm rattled about the valley. Flashes of lightening lit the fields and the thunder rolled around the hills. It was a dramatic backdrop as we spent the night getting to know our trekking companions.
Day 1 - Done - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
The first day of our trek had been tough going in parts, but absolutely brilliant. We’d walked just under 12 kilometres and climbed 490 metres of elevation through stunning scenery, and spent time getting to know our wonderful guide.
Settling into the comfortable bed ready for for some restorative sleep, I hoped we might get some breeze through the shutters to move the hot sticky air. The storm was still with us and the continuous pattering of rain on the roof lulled us into a deep slumber.
Ready For Day 2
After a hearty breakfast of delicious banana pancakes, we were raring to go when Tzu arrived to pick us. We said goodbye to our homestay roommates and went our separate ways. Our new friends heading down along the field, whilst we were going up.
Tzu gave us the option of following the originally planned route, which after the heavy rain overnight was definitely going to be very muddy and boggy. Alternatively we could do an easier route which might be slightly less soggy. We were totally up for the distance of the intended route, but the mud was already ridiculously thick just outside the homestay. Even Tzu seemed relieved when we picked the easier option
Mud And Clouds - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
Considering this was supposed to be a simpler route it wasn’t without its challenges. Following smaller roads rather than crossing fields was marginally easier than rambling through crops. However, some roads were unfinished tracks, and others had been impacted by a landslide. Add in to the mix the overnight downpour and we had plenty of mud to navigate.
Low clouds silently floated through the valley, whilst the sun repeatedly tried to break through the overcast sky. We passed people working in fields, stopped at schools and churches, and gave grazing livestock a wide berth. It was peaceful along the paths – aside from the schwelping of our feet in the mud.
Remote Village 'Shopping'
There was still a lot of uphill, and despite being slippery it was manageable.
As we entered a small village, a lady in traditional clothes with a bag full of handicrafts walked with us. Asking the usual ‘Where you from?’, ‘What’s your name?’. I knew it would only be a matter of time before she tried to sell us something. She asked me how old I was, and I asked her how old she thought I was. Well, that backfired, as she said 50! Needless to say she didn’t get a sale out of me!
Tzu took us into a wooden barn which turned out to be a souvenir shop. A lady worked busily on a loom whilst Tzu talked us through the labour intensive process behind the products. Beautiful home made bags hung on the walls, traditional clothing and decorations were carefully laid out over tables.
The items were pretty and unique, and it was fascinating to find out how they were made. We were a captive audience and felt obliged to make a purchase. We bought a nice wall hanging, and whilst we may have felt an uncomfortable mix of guilt and pressure to make a purchase, we do now have a lovely souvenir.
Learning From A Local
The pace was much slower than the previous day, perhaps because we were taking a less demanding route. It gave us plenty of time to learn more about the people living in the villages in the valley, including the H’Mong, Red Dao and Giay ethnic groups.
Tzu shared incredible details about many important festivals, the traditions, and daily life in the hills. Finding out first hand about the communities living in the area and seeing life through the lens of her culture was fascinating.
The Last Leg - 2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa
After a lunch rest stop and a big plate of simple yet delicious chicken and rice, we were on the final stretch. Crossing over bridges, seeing children fishing in rivers and passing more rice terraces, we followed the path through the valley.
The afternoon was fairly easy going, both in terms of chat and walking, and the sun even started to make an appearance. All too soon we arrived at a cafe on a hill where Tzu announced it was the end of the trek. We had a drink and a chat whilst we waited for our lift.
At the end of two fantastic days of trekking in Sapa, we said our goodbyes to our wonderful giude. Tzu cheerily waved us off, encouraging us to come back for another tour soon.
2 days and 1 night Trekking in Sapa - An amazing experience
Overall it had been an amazing experience, and I’m really glad we booked the trek.
Tzu was a genuinely lovely guide who gave us insight into the people of the area, and took us to places that we might never otherwise have experienced.
It was great trekking terrain with a good mix of easy paths and trickier trails.
The scenery was spectacular, the accommodation was homely, the food was all delicious, and we met some wonderfully friendly people.
The ‘shopping’ was something we had expected. Thankfully we weren’t as harassed as some other trekkers who have shared their experience.
If you like exploring off the beaten track, enjoy being in the great outdoors, and enjoy walking, I can definitely recommend looking into trekking if you’re ever in Sapa.
Want To Try It Yourself?
- You can take an organised tour from Hanoi, or you can start in Sapa town centre itself.
- There are lots of options for treks, from half days, full days, two days and a night and more. So, whatever your level of fitness, your time or monetary budget, you should be able to find something that works for you.
- You’ll find lots of ladies in traditional dress approaching people in the centre of Sapa encouraging them to go on a trek with them – it’s probably best to go with an authorised trek company though, and there are plenty of organisations you can book with.
- We booked our tour with Trekking Tour Sapa and they were really friendly and helpful from the outset.
Cost Of Experience
In June 2023, our 2 day 1 night tour cost $65 each which converted to just over £53 per person. This included meals and accommodation.
Additional spending will be different for everyone. We spent extra on souvenirs, cold drinks with meals and a few beers at our homestay, which came to around £20
Recommendations
- Take water. Our tour included a large bottle of water, but we carried extra, and were glad of it!
- Carry layers – it can get cooler in the hills over night, but it’s also a good idea to cover up from the sun.
- Check the forecast, and pack for the weather.
- Don’t forget the sunscreen. You’ll be outdoors all day so protect yourself.
- Take cash – not only for the ‘shopping’ but for any additional drinks or snacks you might want to buy.
- Hiking boots are not essential. We didn’t have hiking boots with us. There are places in Sapa that rent them out, but we were fine in our trainers.
- Check if you need bedding. If you’re doing an overnight trek, bedding is usually provided (including mosquito nets) but it’s worth double checking.
- Take a towel. You’ll definitely want to wash at the end of a hot day of walking, and towels are not usually provided.
- Pack a spare pair of socks in case it’s a wet walk. You can’t beat clean dry socks at the end of the day.
- Pack some blister plasters if you’ve got them – just in case.
- Make sure your camera battery is charged
- Share your experience! It would be great to hear how you get on if you tackle a trekking adventure in Sapa!