What It's Like Riding in a Hägglund (Antarctica's All-Terrain Vehicle)
16th February 2026 - New Experience Number 5.
When you picture Antarctica, you probably imagine husky sleds and skidoos.
But one of the most important vehicles on the ice is something I’d never even heard of before… a Hägglund.
During our visit to the International Antarctic Centre in Christchurch, I got to find out exactly why these strange-looking vehicles are so well suited to one of the harshest environments on Earth.
Before venturing out on our off-road Hägglund adventure, we’d already survived Antarctic temperatures in the Storm Room. Now we were bracing ourselves for another immersive experience – a chance to find out what it might be like to travel across the Antarctic ice.
We had absolutely no idea quite how much bracing we’d be doing, as I claimed another of my 52 new things in the year.
What is a Hägglund?
It’s one of the most common forms of transport used by Antarctic research programmes, designed to carry people and equipment across snow, ice and terrain that would stop most other vehicles.
It’s as though a train and a tank had a rambunctious lovechild.
It usually consists of two small connected ‘carriages’ and it moves on the caterpillar-like tracks you would usually see on a tank.
It is a beast of a vehicle and can make short work of hills, ravines and the very, very uneven terrain at the South Pole.
Every panel looked built to survive punishment. Thick tracks, chunky hinges and solid metal made it look less like a tourist ride and more like something that genuinely belonged on the Antarctic ice.
It isn’t built for speed. Fifty kilometres an hour is about its limit. But that’s not really the point.
It can climb ridiculous slopes, crawl through deep snow, plough through water and carry a whole team of researchers to places ordinary vehicles simply couldn’t reach.
All Aboard - Riding in a Hägglund
Standing next to it, I couldn’t believe how compact it actually was. I’d imagined something enormous, and although it looked incredibly tough, it wasn’t much bigger than a small minibus.
Getting into the Hägglund was not like getting into a car. We were in the second of the two compartments and climbed up the steps at the back, ducked down through the small door, and slid across to a seat.
Fastening our seatbelts, our driver closed the door behind us, and took his place at the wheel in the front cabin.
His voice came over the speakers – were we ready? With nervous excitement we all gave a thumbs up in the direction of the camera.
None of us really noticed the hand straps hanging down from the ceiling at this point.
Is This What It Feels Like To Be In A Washing Machine?
Despite the smooth drive as we trundled away from the Centre on the tarmac, the metallic rattling was a foreboding indicator of what was to come.
The rain continued to lash down as it had all morning. Our view through the small windows was obscured by condensation on the inside and rain on the outside. We could just make out the muddy route we were about to take as we turned into the Hägglund course. We didn’t really have time to consider what we had let ourselves in for before our driver seemed to turn into some sort of mischievous racer.
With what seemed like absolutely no regard for visitors or vehicle, he ragged that machine over some of the bumpiest terrain I have ever encountered. Imagine being shaken inside a giant washing machine while riding a rollercoaster. It bounced us around in all haphazard directions.
Degrees of Peril - Riding in a Hägglund
He sped up a hill. Not in a straight line of course, no, that wouldn’t have shown off the amazing capabilities of the Hägglund, instead it was up a route on a huge lean. Every instinct-and every law of physics we could remember-told us we were about to topple over.
Yet as we all now gripped tightly on to those hand straps as our centre of gravity moved from its usual position and we felt ourselves leaning with the vehicle, our trusty transport showed no sign of stopping as it persistently made light work of the muddy track.
Mind The Gap
Once we’d climbed to the top of the incline, the course included an almighty crevasse. I don’t think I could have jumped over it easily, it was pretty big!
Whilst the Hägglund usually crosses big gaps in the ice with ease, we were crossing a big muddy gap on a hill. Sitting in the back cabin we couldn’t see the vast drop approaching, but our driver kindly pointed it out as we neared. We braced ourselves.
Rumbling and rattling forwards as the ground was about to disappear, it was surprisingly smoother than we’d anticipated. There were no sudden lurches or jolts, as we just continued on our route as if it was a tiny pot hole.
A Mechanical Amphibian
I don’t know about you, but if I approach a flooded road in my car, I usually slow down.
Our driver had other ideas.
He seemed to be in his element and it felt as though he sped up as we approached what looked like a vast brown river.
Half expecting to get stuck and half expecting the water to seep through the joins in the cab, we were vigorously jostled and bounced around as the water sprayed up high on the outside of the windows.
Emerging on the other side just as speedily as we had entered, there wasn’t a drop of evidence that any water had found its way inside.
Getting To Know My Fellow Passengers
I don’t think any of us had intended to invade each other’s personal space.
Even though we each had our own seat and were fastened in with a seat belt, we couldn’t help but occasionally collide with neighbouring passengers as we were shaken and bumped over the course.
But we were all smiling and laughing as we rumbled across the extreme course.
It had been raucous and wild. It’d been loud and unpredictable. It had been hilarious and fun.
I’d expected a vehicle demonstration. Instead, we’d spent fifteen minutes laughing with complete strangers while being thrown around inside a machine designed to cross Antarctica.
A Driver In His Element
Our driver clearly loved his job. His commentary throughout was perfectly pitched as he told us about the phenomenal capabilities of the vehicle and demonstrated them too.
With a dry sense of humour, he knew exactly what he was doing as he mercilessly showed us what the Hägglund can do across a wet and muddy terrain that wouldn’t have felt too out of place in a jurassic park film.
I suspect he’d driven that course hundreds of times, yet somehow, he still made it feel like the first.
I Loved The Experience Of Riding In A Hägglund
Before climbing aboard, I’d assumed this would be a bit of fun. Another tourist attraction. Another ride.
But being bounced around that muddy course gave me a tiny glimpse into what everyday transport looks like somewhere most of us will never visit.
Prior to this experience, Antarctica was somewhere I’d only imagined through documentaries and photographs.
Climbing aboard a Hägglund didn’t take me to the South Pole, but for ten muddy, exhilarating minutes it made that frozen world feel just a little more real. And that’s exactly why I love trying new things.
It reminded me again that trying something – even a simulation – can make a place feel far more real than simply reading about it.
Want To Try Riding In A Hägglund Yourself?
- If you want to experience riding in a Hägglund like we did, you’ll need to visit the International Antarctic Centre.
- I can highly recommend a visit. It’s well worth adding to your itinerary if you’re visiting Christchurch on the South Island of New Zealand.
Cost Of Experience
- We paid NZD$99 (around £44) per person for the two hour guided tour. This includes priority access to the interactive exhibits.
- General admission costs NZD$74 per person (around £33) and includes the Hägglund experience.
Recommendations
- Check that you can ride. The minimum height for riders is 1.2m. The experience isn’t suitable for anyone with a heart condition, back or neck problems, or anyone who is pregnant.
- Hold on tight! This is a very bumpy ride, and those handholds are there for a reason. You’ll definitely want to use them!
- Don’t forget your camera. Taking photographs while you’re being bounced around isn’t particularly easy, but it’s worth getting a few pictures of yourself inside the Hägglund. You’ll want to remember this one!